Q. How can I contact you?
A. You can reply to the automated email that was sent with your order details, or you can message me at firstname.lastname@example.org
. If you prefer talking over the phone or texting, send me an email and I will call you. I do not list my phone number on my web page for privacy reasons.
Q. Why does my fabric look different than the one pictured?
A. Pictures of fabric colors differ for many reasons. Different devices show color variations. I do try to describe the colors in each listing to help with this. Dye color can also differ between dye batches sent from the supplier. I do try to keep colors consistent and I have set recipes. If you will need 2 pieces of matching fabric, I do recommend that you purchase both at the same time so they are produced in the same dye lot. If you order 2 pieces of the same color, I will dye both in one batch to ensure they are the same shade.
Q. What do I do if I received the wrong fabric?
A. If I make a mistake and send you the wrong fabric, send me an email and I will correct the error. I will send you a new fabric as soon as I receive the one I sent by mistake. I will send you a prepaid shipping label to print and attach to the package so you can mail the fabric back to me. I will cover shipping fees for returning any defective or incorrect fabric sent to you. I will also pay the shipping fee for the replacement fabric. I do my best to send 100% correct fabrics, but occasionally I do get orders mixed up. I will fix my errors as quickly as I can.
Q. Can exchange my fabric?
A. Fabric may be returned or exchanged within 3 days of delivery. Replacement fabric delivery time frame will depend on my inventory. Fabric will need to be returned within 3 days of delivery in the same condition it was sent to you. If the fabric is returned with consumer damage, dirt or smoke odors, a refund or exchange will not be honored. Fabric must be in new unused condition for an exchange or refund. Return postage will need to be paid by you. Postage fees for replacement fabric will also be paid by you.
Q. The post office damaged my package and fabric. What do I do?
A. Send me a photo with the damage on the packaging and fabric. I will replace fabrics damaged in transit. It doesn't happen often, but occasionally accidents happen.
Q. Why does it take 6 weeks for orders?
A. I dye colors in batches. I can dye 2-12 yards of fabric with one batch of dye. I let orders build up a couple weeks and dye larger batches so that I do not waste dye. Normally I dye web site fabrics every 3-4 weeks depending on orders. I keep a small inventory of dyed fabric in my best-selling colors, but not much. I do not have enough storage space to keep a large inventory of dyed fabrics, so most are dyed to order.
Q. It has been 3 weeks since I ordered, where is my fabric?
A. Messages about dye times should not be sent until the 6 week window has passed. Messages sent before that time will be set aside until the 6 week window has passed for that order. This is because it is stated clearly in numerous places on the web site that it may be 6 weeks until fabrics are shipped. :) Fabrics are dyed to order and should be expected to take 6 weeks to ship. If your fabric is ready prior to 6 weeks, you will receive a shipping notification from Shopify or Stamps.com when I ship. If your fabric will be delayed or delivered after the 6 week window, I will send you an email to inform you about the reason for the delay. Sometimes fabric is going to be late because I rejected your first piece and I need to dye again. Other times there are inventory issues with my fabric shipments. Zweigart fabrics are imported from Germany so sometimes delays are due to raw fabric inventory. Orders could also be delayed if I determine that the piece isn't good enough to ship and I am making you a new piece that meets my expectations as well as yours.
Q. My tacking number is not updating, where is my package?
A. When searching a tracking number, I see the same information you do. If you need more detailed tracking information, your local post office can normally help. While we see highlights of scans, they can see every piece of machinery that package has went through. First Class Shipping in the US takes around 2-4 days. I have had packages that were shipped to an address 1 hour away from me take almost 2 weeks to get delivered. Sometimes, packages get loaded on the wrong plane, or sent to the wrong state. They usually make it to their final destination. International packages take 3 week or more to arrive.
Q. Do you do custom sizes?
Q. Do you do custom colors?
Q. My favorite fabric count is not listed on your web site. Why?
A. I have my most popular fabrics listed on the web site. I am going to be adding 22 count Hardanger in the near future. I am also going to include 20 count Aida soon.
Q. What do you wash fabrics with?
A. Fabrics are washed with synthrapol and a small splash of Gain for scent. Synthrapol can sometimes have a chemical smell if nothing is used with it. I also use a softener made for dyed fabrics
Q. Why are there wrinkles in my fabric
A. All fabrics are hung to dry and ironed. Hanging the fabric does leave wrinkles in the fabrics. I only dry Lugana fabric in the dryer on low heat before ironing. Wrinkles will relax from the fabric as you use them. If you don’t plan on washing after your stitch is finished, you can rewash and lay flat to dry before using. If I had the room, I would lay flat to dry, but I only have room to hang them to dry.
Q. Are the fabrics colorfast?
A. All fabrics are dyed with fiber reactive dyes. There is a permanent bond between the color and the fabric. Fabrics may lose a little bit of color during the wash. Cold water should always be used. I recommend using a Color Catcher sheet when you wash your project. If you have a dark fabric, it is ok to prewash to help ensure all excess dye was removed. Hot water will release excess dye.
Q. How do I wash a Finished Project?
A. This is what I do when washing my FFO (Finally Finished Object).
What you need
- I use a small white dish tub. Sinks can have grease from food, so I have always used a small dish tub. Plus, you can buy them in white so you can watch for excess bleeding.
- Dawn dish soap. Fairy Liquid in the UK is supposed to be similar. If you don’t have access to Dawn, use a premium grease fighting dish soap. If it gets bacon grease out of a pan, it will remove hand oils.
- 2 fluffy towels
- Iron and an ironing board or ironing mat.
Run a cold-water bath with a couple drops of Blue Dawn dish soap.
Do not use:
- Soap with lotion or moisturizers
- Every time I hear that DMC floss has bled, they used Woolite. Don’t take the chance. I don’t know what is in there that makes the floss bleed, but it does.
- Hot water. Hot water releases dye. It releases dye BETTER than dye removing soaps. Cold water only.
Before you start, set your first fluffy towel next to your sink so it is close.
Drop your FFO in the cold soapy water and swish around. With my fabrics, you may see a bit of coloration in the water. This happens to me too. I just swish around for a minute or two, then remove the piece. Dawn soap is used to remove hand oils. IMO, that’s really going to be the main reason you wash. The second reason I wash is to help fluff the stitches.
When you feel like the piece is clean, rinse well. Again, cold water.
Now, some people are soakers. If you feel your work is extra dirty and needs a long bath, you can soak. But if you do, use a color catcher. This way, if your fabric or floss bleeds, it will be attracted to the sheet and not somewhere else on your work. All other rules apply. Soaks are in cold water too.
Next, lay the piece face down on the towel. I don’t roll the piece. I press down on the back with my hands and the towel does the work soaking up the excess water. You only need to remove the drips. The piece will be dried in a sec.
Take the damp piece to your iron, place face down on a dry fluffy towel. Keep the towel folded in half if you can. The more padding the better. (You still need an ironing board or iron mat underneath for heat protection.) Iron on Cotton or Linen setting (depending what fabric). I iron all non-opal on Linen and opals on Cotton. It is going to steam like crazy. Its ok. Keep the iron moving. The heat will steam most of the water out. Do this until the piece is dry or mostly dry. I iron mine until they are completely dry. Changing to a dry towel will help finish off the rest of the moisture. Now flip that FFO over and check out the stitches. The combination of the heat, steam, and fluffy towel will really make your stitches stand up. Its amazing how much better they look after this trick.
When you are finished, place on a towel and let sit overnight. Even though it seems dry, there will still be a little moisture left hidden in the floss. After it sits overnight, go over the back one ore time with an iron to ensure all wrinkles are gone.
Notes. I had one piece bleed. It was hand dyed silks. It was the reds. Its always the reds. Anyway, this particular piece, I was in a hurry and did not steam the back until the piece was dry. I think the time it sat drying is when it bled. It did not bleed in the water, only on the fabric around the floss.
If you find a piece that has bled, try this. I saw this in a Cross Stitch group.
Soak piece overnight in Dawn and cold water with a color catcher. That it. That seems to be the best way to get the bleeding out. Don’t use vinegar or bleach or whatever. Just soak it longer. Dye has to be set. It may bleed, but it should come out as long as you don’t set the dye. So Dan should be plenty enough to get it out if it ever does happen.
Keep in mind, darker fabrics are more prone to bleeding. Also, all reds, this includes purple. Those seem to wash out the worst. Always be careful with those colors.